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Posted in Reptiles

Reptile Heating


Reptile Heating

Article supplied by ULTIMATE REPTILE SUPPLIERS Pty. Ltd.
Licensed Dealers in Captive Bred Reptiles www.ultimatereptiles.com.au
As published in The Pet Directory

 

Reptiles Do Not make heat for themselves, but maintain necessary body temperatures by taking heat from their environment. The required body temperature varies according to the species, the time of day, and the stage of digestion of food. For this reason, the temperatures in an enclosure must vary over the floor of the vivarium. In the wild, and in properly constructed outdoor lizard enclosures, the heat is provided by the sun. All reptiles benefit from lighting that closely resembles the sun. Even nocturnal animals will bask in sunlight from time to time.

Ultraviolet Light ( UVA & UVB ) is essential for Lizards, Diamond Pythons and will benefit all Reptiles. UV lighting is required to synthesise vitamin D3 and this in turn is essential for the conversion and absorption of calcium. Its absence will result in illnesses such as Metabolic Bone Disease and Calcium Rigor (i.e. ricketts, dragging of the hind legs and spinal deformities). Most UVB produced by the sun does not pass through glass and this with the danger of overheating by direct sun through the glass means that the only satisfactory method of lighting is using the correct UVA & UVB tubes. U.R.S. (Ultimate Reptile Suppliers) recommends the ReptiStar tube for lizards, snakes and pythons.

CAUTION: ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS. Use a qualified electrician. However, remember that electricians Are Not experts in reptile heating and lighting requirements.

Heating - There are two main types of heat; basking heat for reptiles that spend a lot of time on branches or high in the cage (Arboreal), and ground heat for reptiles that spend a lot of time on the ground (Terrestrial). Most heat sources should be connected to a thermostat to avoid overheating.

Wired Heater

Basking Heat: This is provided by an overhead heat source, usually a ceramic heater, basking lamp or an infrared lamp.

All of these heat sources are available from U.R.S. These should be placed so as to provide a basking hot spot and to general heat throughout the vivarium. White lights must not be used at night as they disturb the animal through its usual night cycle. Heaters can be left unshielded in Lizard enclosures but shields of fine mesh are essential in snake vivariums to prevent them from burns.


Heat Mats


 Hot Rocks

Ground Heat: In shallow vivariums, ground heat is suitable, although radiant heat from the basking heater can warm the substrate sufficiently, especially if a piece of slate is placed below the heater.

In taller vivariums or in cooler climate locations, additional heating will be required at floor level. Low level heating can be provided by the use of heat pads or heat cords, or in some cases heated hides and hot rocks. All of these are available from U.R.S. It should be noted that hot rocks or rock heaters are not heat emitters, but provide a warm surface for the belly heat only (like an electric blanket) and do not warm the vivarium. In the case of some venomous snakes, such as adders, ground heat only would be adequate.

WARNING: Most European and American books assume that a vivarium will be in an air conditioned room at 22 degrees celsius. Many examples given will not apply to your local conditions.


Thermostat 

The Thermal Gradient: Because reptiles need to vary their temperatures, they must have a choice of ground and air temperatures within their enclosure.

`Thermal Gradient` is a term describing temperatures ranging from mild to hot from one end of the vivarium to the other. Differences of 5 degrees to 8 degrees celsius are usual, depending on the species kept. For this reason, heating should be set up at one end of the vivarium only. Vents should be in all enclosures to let the air circulate.

 


Thermometer 


Overheating can be even more dangerous than under heating. U.R.S. have two thermostats available: basic thermostats that need to be wired up by an electrician, and thermostats with a probe and power cord ready wired. Simply plug heat source into probe thermostat and place probe in the center of vivarium. Thermostats without probes must be placed in the center of the vivarium, usually on the back inside wall.

No animals should be heated without a thermometer in the enclosure to monitor the performance of the heater. One should be fixed alongside the thermostat, while a second thermometer can be moved around the vivarium to check the thermal gradient. Remember that glass aquariums lose heat readily and are not really suitable for keeping reptiles. A properly constructed wooden or plastic vivarium retains heat, and provides for easy mounting of lighting and heating equipment. Quality Vivariums are available through U.R.S.

Lighting - UVA and UVB lights are needed for most reptiles.

Ultraviolet Light: This can be provided by using ReptiStar UVA/UVB for lizards, turtles,snakes, pythons, amphibians and arachnids. ReptiStar tubes are made especially for reptiles They simulate sunlight by providing the beneficial UVA and UVB wavelengths that increase appetite, activity and reproductive behavior in captive reptiles and also prevents diseases and infections occuring. Do not use extremely strong “Blacklight Blue” (BLB) tube or poster globes. These can do damage to your animals eyes. Eight watt mini lights are definitely inadequate.

The UV tubes should be fitted in a batten, and turned on for daylight hours only. UV tubes have a limited life and must be renewed every six to twelve months even though they still show visible light. As with heating, shielding of the light is not necessary for lizards, but is a must for snakes and pythons. Shields should be made of smooth mesh. Plastic diffusers will not allow adequate UV rays to reach the reptile.

UVA and UVB tubes are not heaters. A UV tube will increase the temperature by about 2 degrees celsius in the immediate vicinity of the tubes. They do not provide adequate heat for the rest of the vivarium. On extremely warm days lights may have to be turned off to prevent overheating.


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